1. Arrival
Easter Island--Rapa Nui is a tiny speck of land in the South Pacific. Formed by a series of massive volcanic eruptions, the island was only
inhabited by sea birds and dragonflies
for millions of years. Its steep slopes, however, stood out like a beacon
to a weary group of Polynesian seafarers. How long their voyage took or
their reasons for leaving their home country are questions that we'll
never have the answer to, but we can imagine their joy at seeing this
sight after what must have been months at sea
Lava tubes and pounding waves have created hundreds of sea caves and a treacherous coastline. There are only a few small areas that are safe for anchorages. Located in the South Pacific between Chile and Tahiti, Easter Island is one of the most isolated inhabited islands in the world. Roughly triangular and covering only 64 square miles, it formed when a plume of hot material rose from deep within Earth's interior, burned through the crust and erupted onto the surface as lava.
Today, volcanic cones are found at each point of the island. The largest, Rano Kau is easily visible from space. The highest is Terevaka, which rises to 11674 feet above sea level. There are over 70 eruptive centers on the island but none has known activity since the island was colonized 1300 years ago.
Ovahe
Beach, North Shore This sheltered
sand beach is close to Anakena, where the legends say King Hoto Matua
landed his double hulled canoe, thus beginning the occupation of Easter
Island.
Anakena, a beautiful white sand beach stands out from the rest of the coastline, which is either sharp black lava rock or vertical cliff faces hundreds of feet tall.
It is at Anakena that the legends say Hotu Matua landed and began the colonization of the island. Excavations of this area have discovered that it was an important site and it boasts one of the best collections of erected moai on the island, Ahu Naunau.
The voyagers started constructing villages and houses made in an unusual elliptical shape. It has been speculated that this style of construction started when the new arrivals turned their boats upside down for quick housing. There were literally hundreds of remains of these foundations on the island in the 1800's, but most were destroyed by the missionaries to make fences.
Indeed, the
missionaries did more damage to the island's history than even the Peruvian
slave traders, which carted off most of the island's population. Those
who escaped by hiding in the island's many caves were "saved"
by these missionaries, who proceeded to destroy all the islanders' wooden
sculptures, religious artifacts and most importantly, the Rongo-Rongo
tablets, which contained a record of the lost language of the Rapa Nui.
So few of these tablets remain that no one has been able to decipher them.
The first islanders found a lush island, filled with giant palms which they used to build boats and housing. The plants they brought with them did well in the rich volcanic soil and by AD 1550 population on the island hit a high of between 7000 and 9000.
Distinct clans formed as the population increased and various population centers grew up in different areas of the island. One thing tied them all together however — the statue construction and the cult that formed around it.
2. Statue Construction
It
is unclear why the Easter Islanders turned to statue construction on such
a massive scale. Their obsession with it ultimately brought about their
downfall as they depleted more and more of the forests for use in the process
of moving the giant moai. While the why is a mystery, where it happened
and to a large degree how it happened is fairly clear. Each moai was born
from the massive caldera of Rano Raraku. (right)
The soft volcanic tuff was perfect material for statue carving. Using harder volcanic rock implements they were able to first sketch out the moai's outline in the rock wall and then systematically chip away at it until the moai was held in place by a thin "keel."
The moai carvers were master craftsmen that had rose through the ranks of a "carver's guild." The production of the statues was most likely through conscripted labor with many rituals and ceremonies performed throughout the process. The stone carvers were ingenious in making the most out of sections of rock. moai can be seen carved in all directions in the cliff face. If a defect would appear in the rock the statue would be abandoned and they moved on to another area. They took advantage of fissures in the volcanic walls and also variations in colors. In short they were true artists.
Finally
when a statue was finished, it was broken off its keel and slid carefully
down the slope using ropes tied to giant palm trunks which were sunk in
specially prepared holes in rim of the crater. At the base of the crater
they were raised up and final decorations were carved into its torso and
back. Coral and obsidian eyes were placed in as a final touch, although
some suggest these were only placed in the statues on special occasions.
Preparation was then made for transport across the island to various ahu.
The ahu were the ceremonial platforms built to support collections of moai. As evidence of the difficulty moving the moai, many can be seen along the paths of ancient roadways where they broke along the way and were abandoned.
It is believed
that the statues were commissioned commemorative images of lineage heads.
However, the moai are not portraits of specific individuals although some
may have inscriptions or other markings that linked them with specific
chiefs. Why they chose the stylized design of the angular face and long
phallus shaped bodies is unclear and is one of the greatest mysteries
of the Rapa Nui.
While there are some other stone sculptures made by Polynesians, none is similar to the moai. In parts of South America, some statues have been found which resemble the "kneeling" statue on Rano Raraku, but nothing anywhere else resembles the standardized moai design that the Rapa Nui carved over a thousand times.
3. Erecting the Moai
Once
the statues were reasonably complete, they then had to be transported across
the island to the platforms prepared for them. This involved a trek of 14
miles in some cases. How were these massive Moai moved to the sites? Barring
any extraterrestrial influence it seems likely that they were rolled along
the ancient roads that crisscrossed the island on logs lubricated with the
oils from palm trees. Some suggest that they were moved in an upright position
and kept stable by crews manning ropes. This mode would verify the island
legends of the statues "walking" to their sites. From a distance
seeing one of these great Moai moving along the road bobbing up and down
as the logs moved underneath would surely have looked like a statue moving
under its own power with a procession alongside it. What a sight that would
have been!
However,
recent computer simulations by Jo Anne von Tilburg at UCLA have shown
that it would have been much simpler to position the Moai in a horizontal
position on two large logs and then roll the whole unit along on other
logs placed perpendicular to it. Using this method Van Tilburg calculated
that an average moai could have been moved from the quarry to Ahu Akivi
in less than 5 days, using approximately 70 men. Her theories were recently
put to the test in a successful experiment to move a moai replica on Easter
Island sponsored and filmed by Nova (see Resources section)
Once the journey was complete the Moai were positioned atop great platforms called ahu. Built at the edge of the ocean, the ahu required just as much engineering know-how and raw labor as the statue construction itself. It is here that the Easter Islanders' stonework skills can fully be appreciated. As seen in the images to the right of Ahu Naunau and Ahu Tahai, massive blocks and tons of fill were required to build the supports for the moai. Although they were an incredible engineering feat, most of the ahu built were less than elegant constructions. At one mysterious site, however, it was much different.
The
stonework of Ahu Vai Uri (right) is compared to that of Ahu Vinapu (below)
on the southern shore near Rano Kau. The detail shot shows the incredible
precision in the stone fittings. It was this precision, so similar to the
stonework done by the Incas, that gave Thor Heyerdahl the idea that the
Easter Islanders had come from South America in reed boats on the prevailing
currents. Stonework of this complexity had not been seen in Polynesia, but
it was common in Peru. It's impossible to look at that site and not think
of the exact type of stone fitting which is so common in sites like Machu
Picchu. Most archaeologists consider the similarities a coincidence. If
so, it is a remarkable one.
Soon
ahu with erected moai were installed on all corners of the island, until
over one thousand had been carved, and the population of the island also
continued to grow. For decades the competition to build the biggest and
best moai went on, and different ahu - each belonging to a different clan
- formed an almost unbroken line along the coast of Easter Island. The culture
had reached its zenith. And then something went terribly wrong . . .
4. Conflict: The Fall of the Moai
A
chilling story of resource exploitation and destruction on Easter Island
is beginning to come to light. The first westerners to discover the island
wondered how any one could have survived on such a desolate, treeless place.
Indeed, this was a mystery until recent core samples taken from the crater
lakes showed that the island was heavily forested with a giant now-extinct
palm while the Easter Island culture was active.
Apparently the islanders were greeted with a lush tropical paradise when they first discovered it. It must have seemed inexhaustible. The trees were cut for lumber for housing, wood for fires, and eventually for the rollers and lever-like devices used to move and erect the moai.
As
the deforestation continued the moai building competition turned into an
obsession. The quarry was producing moai at sizes that probably could never
have been moved very far (one unfinished moai in the quarry is 70 feet tall!)
And still the trees came down. With the loss of the forests, the land began
to erode. The small amount of topsoil quickly washed into the sea. The crops
began to fail and the clans turned on one another in a battle for the scarce
resources. The symbols of the islanders' power and success, the moai, were
toppled. Eyes
were smashed out of the moai and often rocks were placed where the statues
neck would fall so it would decapitate the moai. The
violence grew worse and worse. It was said that the victors would eat their
dead enemies to gain strength, bones found on the island show evidence of
this cannibalism. With the scarce food supplies it may have been a question
of hunger as well as being ceremonial. A spooky cave (right) at the southwest
corner of the island, Ana Kai Tangata, is translated to "cave where
men are eaten." Inside are pictographs painted in ochre and white of
ghost like birds flying upwards. With no wood left to build boats, all the
Rapa Nui people could do was look enviously at the birds that sail effortless
through the sky. The Rapa Nui culture and community, which had developed
over the past 300 years, collapsed.
Their island
was in shambles, and their villages and crops destroyed. There was no
wood left on the island to build escape boats. The few survivors of the
conflict, perhaps numbering as low as 750, began to pick up the pieces
of their culture. One thing they left behind, however, were the moai....
5. A New Cult Rises
The
Easter Islanders were more cut off from the world then ever before. Any
dreams of escaping the destroyed island were dashed by the lack of wood.
The only boats they could build were small rafts and canoes made of tortoro
reeds. Even fishing must have become extremely difficult at this point.
The island was a wasteland, the eroded soil just barely producing enough
food for the meager population to survive. It was under these conditions
that the Birdman Cult arose.
Above: The rim of Rano Kau became the center of the Easter Island Birdman Cult
It's
possible that the Birdman practices had been going on during the reign
of the statue cult; however, it eventually took over as the predominate
religion on the island and was still in practice up untill 1866-67.
High
on the rim of the crater known as Rano Kau was the ceremonial village
of Orongo. Built to worship the god of fertility, Makemake, it became
the site of a grueling competition.
Each year leadership of the island was determined by the individual who could scale down the vertical slopes, swim out to one of three small islets in shark-infested waters, and bring back the egg of the nesting sooty tern unbroken. The one who did this successfully was considered the Birdman of the year and was bestowed with special honors and privileges.
One
of the most fascinating sights at Orongo are the hundreds of petroglyphs
carved with birdman and Makemake images. Carved into solid basalt, they
have resisted ages of harsh weather. It has been suggested that the images
represent birdman competition winners. Over 480 Birdman petroglyphs have
been found on the island, mostly around Orongo.
As Birdman images transformed the rocks, so too were the islanders transformed. It seemed that the culture was beginning to rebuild itself. We will never know whether the Rapa Nui would have survived and prospered, because in 1862 wave after wave of slave traders landed on Easter Island and took away all healthy individuals. In the space of one year, a level of injury, death and disease was inflicted on the population leaving a broken people, bereft of leadership. As their culture lay in disarray a new force entered the scene whose actions would forever deny the world of a true understanding of the Rapa Nui culture.
The
missionaries arrived on Easter when the people were at their most vulnerable.
With their society in ruins it did not take long to convert the population
to Christianity. First to go was the islanders style of dress, or lack
thereof. Tattooing and use of body paint were banned. Destruction of Rapa
Nui artworks, buildings, and sacred objects, including most of the Rongo-rongo
tablets - the key to understanding their history - was swift and complete.
Islanders were forced off their ancestral lands and required to live in
one small section of the island while the rest of the land was used for
ranching.
Eventually all pure Rapa Nui blood died out. Annexation with Chile brought new influences, and today there are only a few individuals left with ties to the original population.
6. A Lesson from the Past
A
jewel of an island floating in an endless sea. A seemingly never-ending
supply of raw materials. Technological advances. Population growth. Depletion
of resources. War. Collapse. Sound familiar? The Easter Island story is
a story for our times. We too are on an island floating on an endless sea.
There are differences, of course. It could be said that Easter Island is
tiny and that it was only a matter of time before the resources in such
a closed system were used up. But there are parallels between the islanders'
attitude towards their environment and our own, and this is the most frightening
part of the story.
On an island as small as Easter, it was easy to see the effects of the deforestation as it was taking place. But the inhabitants continued their destructive actions. They probably prayed to their gods to replenish the land so they could continue to rape it, but the gods didn't answer. And still the trees came down. Whatever one did to alter that ecosystem, the results were reasonably predictable. One could stand on the summit and see almost every point on the island. The person who felled the last tree could see that it was the last tree. Nonetheless, he (or she) still felled it.* This is the really scary part. As our own forests fall to the bulldozers, there are many who are valiantly trying to save them. It is obvious, now that we have satellites showing us the massive deforestation, that there is a serious problem. And yet our leaders — and even the majority of individuals — look on, unconcerned. They appear willing to bulldoze the last trees to build the moai of our time — technology & development. Will we have the sense to reconcile our lifestyles with the well-being of our environment, or is the human personality always the same — as that of the person who felled the last tree?*
The End

*from the book Easter Island-Earth Island
http://www.mysteriousplaces.com/Easter_Island/html/tour6.html
Easter Island--Rapa Nui is a tiny speck of land in the South Pacific. Formed by a series of massive volcanic eruptions, the island was only
Lava tubes and pounding waves have created hundreds of sea caves and a treacherous coastline. There are only a few small areas that are safe for anchorages. Located in the South Pacific between Chile and Tahiti, Easter Island is one of the most isolated inhabited islands in the world. Roughly triangular and covering only 64 square miles, it formed when a plume of hot material rose from deep within Earth's interior, burned through the crust and erupted onto the surface as lava.
Today, volcanic cones are found at each point of the island. The largest, Rano Kau is easily visible from space. The highest is Terevaka, which rises to 11674 feet above sea level. There are over 70 eruptive centers on the island but none has known activity since the island was colonized 1300 years ago.
Anakena, a beautiful white sand beach stands out from the rest of the coastline, which is either sharp black lava rock or vertical cliff faces hundreds of feet tall.
It is at Anakena that the legends say Hotu Matua landed and began the colonization of the island. Excavations of this area have discovered that it was an important site and it boasts one of the best collections of erected moai on the island, Ahu Naunau.
The voyagers started constructing villages and houses made in an unusual elliptical shape. It has been speculated that this style of construction started when the new arrivals turned their boats upside down for quick housing. There were literally hundreds of remains of these foundations on the island in the 1800's, but most were destroyed by the missionaries to make fences.
The first islanders found a lush island, filled with giant palms which they used to build boats and housing. The plants they brought with them did well in the rich volcanic soil and by AD 1550 population on the island hit a high of between 7000 and 9000.
Distinct clans formed as the population increased and various population centers grew up in different areas of the island. One thing tied them all together however — the statue construction and the cult that formed around it.
2. Statue Construction
The soft volcanic tuff was perfect material for statue carving. Using harder volcanic rock implements they were able to first sketch out the moai's outline in the rock wall and then systematically chip away at it until the moai was held in place by a thin "keel."
The moai carvers were master craftsmen that had rose through the ranks of a "carver's guild." The production of the statues was most likely through conscripted labor with many rituals and ceremonies performed throughout the process. The stone carvers were ingenious in making the most out of sections of rock. moai can be seen carved in all directions in the cliff face. If a defect would appear in the rock the statue would be abandoned and they moved on to another area. They took advantage of fissures in the volcanic walls and also variations in colors. In short they were true artists.
The ahu were the ceremonial platforms built to support collections of moai. As evidence of the difficulty moving the moai, many can be seen along the paths of ancient roadways where they broke along the way and were abandoned.
While there are some other stone sculptures made by Polynesians, none is similar to the moai. In parts of South America, some statues have been found which resemble the "kneeling" statue on Rano Raraku, but nothing anywhere else resembles the standardized moai design that the Rapa Nui carved over a thousand times.
3. Erecting the Moai
Once the journey was complete the Moai were positioned atop great platforms called ahu. Built at the edge of the ocean, the ahu required just as much engineering know-how and raw labor as the statue construction itself. It is here that the Easter Islanders' stonework skills can fully be appreciated. As seen in the images to the right of Ahu Naunau and Ahu Tahai, massive blocks and tons of fill were required to build the supports for the moai. Although they were an incredible engineering feat, most of the ahu built were less than elegant constructions. At one mysterious site, however, it was much different.
4. Conflict: The Fall of the Moai
Apparently the islanders were greeted with a lush tropical paradise when they first discovered it. It must have seemed inexhaustible. The trees were cut for lumber for housing, wood for fires, and eventually for the rollers and lever-like devices used to move and erect the moai.
5. A New Cult Rises
Above: The rim of Rano Kau became the center of the Easter Island Birdman Cult
Each year leadership of the island was determined by the individual who could scale down the vertical slopes, swim out to one of three small islets in shark-infested waters, and bring back the egg of the nesting sooty tern unbroken. The one who did this successfully was considered the Birdman of the year and was bestowed with special honors and privileges.
As Birdman images transformed the rocks, so too were the islanders transformed. It seemed that the culture was beginning to rebuild itself. We will never know whether the Rapa Nui would have survived and prospered, because in 1862 wave after wave of slave traders landed on Easter Island and took away all healthy individuals. In the space of one year, a level of injury, death and disease was inflicted on the population leaving a broken people, bereft of leadership. As their culture lay in disarray a new force entered the scene whose actions would forever deny the world of a true understanding of the Rapa Nui culture.
Eventually all pure Rapa Nui blood died out. Annexation with Chile brought new influences, and today there are only a few individuals left with ties to the original population.
6. A Lesson from the Past
On an island as small as Easter, it was easy to see the effects of the deforestation as it was taking place. But the inhabitants continued their destructive actions. They probably prayed to their gods to replenish the land so they could continue to rape it, but the gods didn't answer. And still the trees came down. Whatever one did to alter that ecosystem, the results were reasonably predictable. One could stand on the summit and see almost every point on the island. The person who felled the last tree could see that it was the last tree. Nonetheless, he (or she) still felled it.* This is the really scary part. As our own forests fall to the bulldozers, there are many who are valiantly trying to save them. It is obvious, now that we have satellites showing us the massive deforestation, that there is a serious problem. And yet our leaders — and even the majority of individuals — look on, unconcerned. They appear willing to bulldoze the last trees to build the moai of our time — technology & development. Will we have the sense to reconcile our lifestyles with the well-being of our environment, or is the human personality always the same — as that of the person who felled the last tree?*
The End
*from the book Easter Island-Earth Island
http://www.mysteriousplaces.com/Easter_Island/html/tour6.html
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